Saturday, 16 June 2012

Lipstick On Your Collar - Part One

This week’s post is the first in a series looking at vintage and retro icons, whether they are famous people or fashion items. 
For all you bombshells, pin ups, glamour-pusses, vamps, power-dressers, war-time belles, rockabillys and doll faces this one is dedicated to you … we bring you the one, the only … red lipstick.

Time to get Lippy
This week we’ll take a look at this little powerhouse through (almost) the last hundred years. Next week we’ll follow up with a class in how to wear this indispensible piece of kit.

Way back in the Bronze Age in the Middle East women were crushing jewels to decorate their lips. Fast forward and we spy Cleopatra using beetles, ants and fish scales as lip colour (guess it doubled up as a tasty snack). Elizabeth I is famous for her bright red lipstick and contrasting powdered face. Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor wore their red lipstick as a badge of classic Hollywood glamour and femininity; while Madonna wore her Mac in Russian Red as a rebellious defiance; declaring her independence and sexuality as a force to be reckoned with.  Well if it was good enough for these lovelies it’s good enough for us! Hurrah!

Ancient Egyptian Glamour
Red lipstick has been a near constant favourite since the 1920’s. With Hollywood stars of the silent films, such as Greta Garbo, exuding flawless style, lipstick in general became popular and acceptable in public. Before then it had a strong association with racy types and floosies – ooh I say! With the end of the First World War people were fed up with austerity and making do (yawn); glamour, decadence and fun was where it was at. As a result the conditions were right for Art Deco to flourish, bringing a touch of luxury to the masses. In the make-up bag lipstick gave a quick and cheap injection of gloss and allure to the everyday. Dark red was the shade of choice. It was used to signal independence through its dramatic look and frivolity because it was so far removed from the practical and everyday. It was all party, party, party.

This call for glamour continued into the 1930’s with Ginger Rogers having a swell time a-tapping and a-swinging her way through the decade and Dorothy bravely fighting off flying monkeys in full eye-popping colour. On the street however the colour began to tone down with reddish browns coming in to reflect a more sober period, particularly economically.

Bam! Bright reds were back on trend in war-time 40’s. With men away doing their duty for their country there was a feeling of literally putting on a brave face, it was almost patriotic to make the effort and show confidence despite the shortages. Creativity was called for and women wanted to combat the necessary plain cheap clothes with eye catching colour. This coincided with a lot of women moving into the working roles left vacant by the absent men. In the fields and factories women were finding a new sense of equality and responsibility while still wanting to retain a strong feminine identity.

With a sigh of relief the 1950’s brought in a greater care-free mood. Bettie Page teased, Marilyn flirted, Kim Novak attempted to lure men to their death and Elizabeth Taylor simply seduced; all with a splash of red lipstick. Women used red lipstick to both assert their newly gained confidence and independence out in the world while also reverting back to a more traditional sense of sexuality.

Hawaiian High Times

50's Rocking the Red Style ... and How!
Rocking reds took a backseat during the 1960’s with make-up styles fading into the palest shades, including white, with a futuristic vision while a more natural look was adopted by the Woodstock generation. In fact lips were no longer the focus with hemlines racing up the leg and boobs, hips and bums taking the limelight (think Ursula Andress emerging from the sea in Dr No).

Shiny disco balls gave a shimmer to the 1970’s and glamour was once again back in. Burgundies and crimson reds boogied on the screen in Saturday Night Fever and out on the lit up dance floors with Donna Summer providing soul with I Feel Love and Mike Leigh’s Beverley giving her own rendition of Love to Love You Baby in Abigail’s Party (with classic shoulder shimmy).

The 1980’s saw the red lipstick being taken up again as a challenge; this time by the punks … and Boy George was showing the girls how to really apply make-up. There was the strong look of the almost dominatrix and robotic guitar-touting models in the music video for Addicted to Love. The shoulder-padded, high-gloss set, living in the alter worlds of Dallas and Dynasty on the telly wouldn’t dream of having a drunken row without full make-up and, of course, their ‘make no mistake, I'm a bitch’ red lipstick.

Packing the Power
Hhhmm, we’re picking up a pattern here. Yep, reds took a back seat once again in the 1990’s with a return to an emphasis on a toned down look. With our weekly fix of Friends and the emergence of the brand Bobbi Brown lips took a rest from the red spectrum and opted for a range of browns.

Into the naughties (oops we mean noughties) with RnB ruling the clubs reds still bided their time. There was more of a natural look with the health industry in full swing and women looking for balance and the odd hot stone massage.

Well, here we are, 2012 and in the midst of a full blown vintage revival and ain’t it just grand?  Out there on the streets red lipstick is back! We’re wearing it as a statement piece with little else to detract from the full impact. However, this time around, we’re making full use of the red range with emphasis on the individual; matching the right colour to our own unique and beautiful features. Clever.

Next week in part two we’ll be sharing tips on how to achieve the perfect pout for you to really bring your favourite vintage look to life.  


Love Frock&Roll

Picture credits: 1) (c) Redshapka/StockFreeImages & Dreamstime Stock Photos, 2) Wikimedia Commons,                                                                        
3) Freeretrographics.blogspot.com/Hawaiian-bathing-beauty, 4) Pinupcartoongirls/com/vintage smokers, 5) Robert Palmer Addicted To Love, Island.

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