A Stitch In Time

Today we are going to look at a vintage label that epitomises 40’s fashion: CC41.

CC41 was created in response to a very particular set of political, cultural and economic conditions and went on to play a crucial part in the history of British fashion and its influences can still be seen today.

By the time clothes rationing came into force on the 1^st June 1941 the Second World War had already been waging for nine months and strategic and systematic attacks on British merchant shipping and imports had had a serious impact on homeland resources. In order to preserve valuable materials and labour the government via The Board of Trade added clothing rationing to the list of food, petrol and other consumables. This was called the Civilian Clothing Act, 1941. Clothing rationing meant everyone was allotted a share of wool, cotton and household fabrics and it was based on a points system and operated using coupons. These coupons were not payment and they did not guarantee availability. They were intended to share out supplies and reduce waste.

To get an idea of what this rationing meant to people in 1941 each adult was given 66 points per year. Each year after saw a reduction in points until in 1945 each person was allocated just 24 points. When a man’s suit was between 26 – 29 points, a woollen coat 18 points, a wool dress 11 points, women’s shoes 7 points and men’s shoes 9 points, the rations didn’t go far. The government aimed at people receiving one new outfit a year. Work overalls, second hand clothes and furs were not rationed.

Alongside the rationing The Board of Trade promoted the now famous make do and mend culture. The board sent out how to leaflets with the character Mrs Sew and Sew helping families to repair and patch clothes to make them last.

 With The Board of Trade imposing strict austerity measures and restricting the manufacturing of clothes the clothing industry worked to tight regulations on the amount of labour and the quantity of cloth used. The devil was in the detail with specifications published on the line and cut, the length of men’s shirts and women’s skirts (hem was to be 18 inches off the floor; just below the knee).  Men's waistcoats were seen as unnecessary so three piece suits went to two piece and pocket flaps disappeared while turn ups on trousers were abolished. Dresses were to have no more than two pockets, five buttons, six seams and less than four metres of stitching. Lace, frills and other decorative pieces were disallowed so manufacturers relied on pockets, belts and buttons for any aesthetics.

The Board understood the need to raise moral at home and how fashion had a role in this. They approached the Incorporated Society of London Fashion Designers (IncSoc), who was led by Hardy Amies and Norman Hartnell among others, to help. IncSoc originally evolved from the Fashion Group of Great Britain of 1935 who pushed to promote British fashion and compete on the international stage. IncSoc was founded with government sponsorship to raise revenue, from exporting British fashion, for the war effort.

The Board commissioned IncSoc to create 34 designs for a year round collection incorporating all of the imposed controls. The designs had to be hard wearing and of good quality, despite cheap materials. Tall order! A tall order indeed for Designer Norman Hartnell, who in his pre-war designs was all about frivolity, and is even quoted as saying “I despise simplicity. It is the negation of all that is beautiful.” However, Hartnell and IncSoc delivered. The designs were based on simple, elegant and dignified cuts. The look was based on the tailored line with square shoulders and nipped in waists. Skirts were straight or with a slight flair (reducing material needed). Some of the designers imitated elements of the military uniform with square shoulders, breast pockets and belts. The designs also included a couture range for those who could afford it. Shoes were chunky with a heel no higher than two inches high and open toe designs were banned. Our modern-day health and safety executives would be puffed up with pride! All of these designs were produced and sold under the label CC41 (short for Civilian Clothing Act, 1941) and became commonly known as ‘the cheeses’ due to the cheese-like label icon.

The CC41 label met a wave of resentment and resistance for lots of reasons. Fashion before the war favoured frills, decoration and finer fabrics and the utility look was a stark contrast. The quality of the clothes was in doubt too. People also thought the label was going to be very limited with little chance of instilling their own individuality in their look. However, with CC41’s introduction, people were pleasantly surprised at the range of colours, styles and quality of the line.

Incidentally, under the CC41 banner, a range of furniture, in the style of the Arts and Crafts Movement, was introduced in November 1942. This was rationed to all, though the newly married and those bombed out were exempt from the scheme.

Clothing rationing did not end until 1949 and by then people were thoroughly fed up with the restrictions, particularly as British fashion designers were seen to be exporting their goods abroad to revive the industry and people felt left behind the times. CC41 had had its day and was to be overtaken by the shock and delight of Dior’s New Look with its audacious reams of fabrics and sheer feminine swirliness … and the rest is history.

With the distance of time the CC41 label and its associated style has maintained its place in the history of British fashion. The Simple and slim line cuts are now classics and honoured again and again, by contemporary designers, attempting to evoke understated grace and elegance of British tailoring. Britain’s annual autumnal love of military inspired looks could also be said to have blitz spirit roots. Men’s fashion in particular turned a corner through CC41 with a more informal look encouraged with the suit relaxing and the promotion of pullovers; all brought about the practicalities of economics.  The very fact the CC41 designs met the period’s rigorous demands for hard wearing endurance and have gone onto survive nearly 70 years is a testimony to their quality. What do you reckon - could our high street favourites meet such a challenge? 

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