Lipstick On Your Collar - Part One

This week’s post is the first in a series looking at vintage and retro icons, whether they are famous people or fashion items. 

For all you bombshells, pin ups, glamour-pusses, vamps, power-dressers, war-time belles, rockabillys and doll faces this one is dedicated to you … we bring you the one, the only … red lipstick.

Time to get Lippy

This week we’ll take a look at this little powerhouse through (almost) the last hundred years. Next week we’ll follow up with a class in how to wear this indispensible piece of kit.

Way back in the Bronze Age in the Middle East women were crushing jewels to decorate their lips. Fast forward and we spy Cleopatra using beetles, ants and fish scales as lip colour (guess it doubled up as a tasty snack). Elizabeth I is famous for her bright red lipstick and contrasting powdered face. Marilyn Monroe and Elizabeth Taylor wore their red lipstick as a badge of classic Hollywood glamour and femininity; while Madonna wore her Mac in Russian Red as a rebellious defiance; declaring her independence and sexuality as a force to be reckoned with.  Well if it was good enough for these lovelies it’s good enough for us! Hurrah!

Ancient Egyptian Glamour

Red lipstick has been a near constant favourite since the 1920’s. With Hollywood stars of the silent films, such as Greta Garbo, exuding flawless style, lipstick in general became popular and acceptable in public. Before then it had a strong association with racy types and floosies – ooh I say! With the end of the First World War people were fed up with austerity and making do (yawn); glamour, decadence and fun was where it was at. As a result the conditions were right for Art Deco to flourish, bringing a touch of luxury to the masses. In the make-up bag lipstick gave a quick and cheap injection of gloss and allure to the everyday. Dark red was the shade of choice. It was used to signal independence through its dramatic look and frivolity because it was so far removed from the practical and everyday. It was all party, party, party.

This call for glamour continued into the 1930’s with Ginger Rogers having a swell time a-tapping and a-swinging her way through the decade and Dorothy bravely fighting off flying monkeys in full eye-popping colour. On the street however the colour began to tone down with reddish browns coming in to reflect a more sober period, particularly economically.

Bam! Bright reds were back on trend in war-time 40’s. With men away doing their duty for their country there was a feeling of literally putting on a brave face, it was almost patriotic to make the effort and show confidence despite the shortages. Creativity was called for and women wanted to combat the necessary plain cheap clothes with eye catching colour. This coincided with a lot of women moving into the working roles left vacant by the absent men. In the fields and factories women were finding a new sense of equality and responsibility while still wanting to retain a strong feminine identity.

With a sigh of relief the 1950’s brought in a greater care-free mood. Bettie Page teased, Marilyn flirted, Kim Novak attempted to lure men to their death and Elizabeth Taylor simply seduced; all with a splash of red lipstick. Women used red lipstick to both assert their newly gained confidence and independence out in the world while also reverting back to a more traditional sense of sexuality.

Hawaiian High Times

50's Rocking the Red Style ... and How!

Rocking reds took a backseat during the 1960’s with make-up styles fading into the palest shades, including white, with a futuristic vision while a more natural look was adopted by the Woodstock generation. In fact lips were no longer the focus with hemlines racing up the leg and boobs, hips and bums taking the limelight (think Ursula Andress emerging from the sea in Dr No).

Shiny disco balls gave a shimmer to the 1970’s and glamour was once again back in. Burgundies and crimson reds boogied on the screen in Saturday Night Fever and out on the lit up dance floors with Donna Summer providing soul with I Feel Love and Mike Leigh’s Beverley giving her own rendition of Love to Love You Baby in Abigail’s Party (with classic shoulder shimmy).

The 1980’s saw the red lipstick being taken up again as a challenge; this time by the punks … and Boy George was showing the girls how to really apply make-up. There was the strong look of the almost dominatrix and robotic guitar-touting models in the music video for Addicted to Love. The shoulder-padded, high-gloss set, living in the alter worlds of Dallas and Dynasty on the telly wouldn’t dream of having a drunken row without full make-up and, of course, their ‘make no mistake, I'm a bitch’ red lipstick.

Packing the Power

Hhhmm, we’re picking up a pattern here. Yep, reds took a back seat once again in the 1990’s with a return to an emphasis on a toned down look. With our weekly fix of Friends and the emergence of the brand Bobbi Brown lips took a rest from the red spectrum and opted for a range of browns.

Into the naughties (oops we mean noughties) with RnB ruling the clubs reds still bided their time. There was more of a natural look with the health industry in full swing and women looking for balance and the odd hot stone massage.

Well, here we are, 2012 and in the midst of a full blown vintage revival and ain’t it just grand?  Out there on the streets red lipstick is back! We’re wearing it as a statement piece with little else to detract from the full impact. However, this time around, we’re making full use of the red range with emphasis on the individual; matching the right colour to our own unique and beautiful features. Clever.

Next week in part two we’ll be sharing tips on how to achieve the perfect pout for you to really bring your favourite vintage look to life.  

Love Frock&Roll

Picture credits: 1) (c) Redshapka/StockFreeImages & Dreamstime Stock Photos, 2) Wikimedia Commons,                                                                        
3) Freeretrographics.blogspot.com/Hawaiian-bathing-beauty, 4) Pinupcartoongirls/com/vintage smokers, 5) Robert Palmer Addicted To Love, Island.

Far Out Daddy O!

Wow! 2012 is turning out to be a year to remember. As we hurtle to half time with celebrations galore and the Olympics just around the corner (we’ll swiftly draw a veil over the Hump’s Eurovision efforts) it’s all go, go, go!

Because it’s so busy we thought we would give you a quick reminder so the man in your life doesn’t get forgotten in the whirl of parties and events. Yep, it’s Father’s Day on 17^th of June and if you’re a daddy’s girl (or boy) you’ll undoubtedly be looking for a pressie for the main man that is a little more thoughtful, inspiring, fun and unique than a new drill from his beloved Screwfix catalogue.

In the shop we often hear people exclaim with a grin “Oh, I remember wearing a shirt like that”, “I had a pair just like those”, “That takes me back”. Why not re-create that warm n fuzzy feeling by taking your dad down memory lane and back to his glory days? A shirt with an awesome collar, a suit to gently encourage your dad out of those comfy but indecently holey jeans, a mod style t-shirt or a hippy waistcoat could all hit the jackpot and win you some brownie points. Adding accents of vintage with accessories means present buying is easy peasy. How about taking the nostalgia trip to a whole new level and having a themed dinner with nosh, clobber and tunes from your dad’s favourite era? Note: you may need to invest in a vat of Brylcreem.

Here are some smashing ideas for some vintage-inspired gifts for Daddy’s Day.

If your dad is a bit of a dandy this smart grey suit will … suit him. Check out those fabulous lapels! With the slimming vertical stripes and chest-broadening lapels he’ll be strutting his stuff showing he’s still got what it takes!

How about a dressing gown to go with the slippers you bought him at Christmas? Of course he may find it utterly irresistible to do his imitation of Noel Coward every time he dons this classic.

Who says dads can’t do double denim? Not us! If your dad prefers the casual look he’ll dig this duo. An iconic denim jacket tells everyone your pops can still hang tough working the rebel teenager; the lone wolf.

Sporty dad is down with the kids. Raising of the collar is obligatory. Tasty. Keeping the look fresh and effortless this look says ‘I’m just off to the hop’.

Funk-tastic! Every dad had one of these classy leather jackets, with a practical amount of pockets for any man. Losing his car keys will no longer be a problem with this blast from the past. Get him into a retro shirt and take him right back, at the speed of 70’s sound, to a time when all he had to worry about was whether his collar was respectably big.

OK, this one might not be for the faint hearted or the meek n mild but bear with us. Try to keep images of your dad mowing the lawn in this ensemble out of your mind.  Hawaiian shirts are having their flamingo sunset heyday this summer and your dad could be at the epicentre of this revival. Come on, he’s going to secretly love tending to the BBQ in a tropical shirt! We love the pattern on the shorts; they are seriously groovy.

Accessories are tip top for a cheap but still personal option. From belts, hats and bags to scarves and handkerchiefs any look can have an individual twist. Ties or cufflinks are a fab way to give a smart outfit or a crisp shirt a unique finish.

Hope we’ve helped with ideas to get your creative gift juices flowing and all the dads out there get spoilt rotten. Step away from the Screwfix catalogue.

Love Frock&Roll

Snappy Dressers And Sunday Service

Look who came into see us - friends of Frock&Roll Justice and Daniel; two well heeled men about town.

Looking fresh, casual and cool Justice and Daniel doubled up for an easy assault on leather jackets.

Now, come on, who doesn’t love a lad in leather?

By the by  - having just had a sneaky peek at the weekend's weather Sunday is looking like it might be a incey bit on the soggy side. So if you don't fancy eating cucumber sandwiches in the park with your brolly up why not join us at the Hexagon for a special Jubilee inspired Real Vintage Fair. Doors open at 12pm and this fair is featuring a roller disco (Price £3.50, U16s free, Students and Concessions £2.50 & extra £4 for skate hire on the roller rink) so if you fancy a shop and a spin dig out the leg warmers, get your skates on and we'll see you there. Make you sure come by and say hi.

Have a great weekend,

Love Frock&Roll

Fashion By Royal Appointment

The Queen with a Royal Fan

So, what have you got planned for the Diamond Jubilee looonng weekend? A street party with a lovely bit of bunting? Heading up to London for a swell time at the river pageant?  Keeping it local at the Real Vintage Fair at The Hexagon on Sunday 3^rd (with roller disco)? Taking it easy at the concert and garden party at Forbury Gardens on Sunday afternoon? Going to the carnival on west-side at Prospect Park on the Monday?
 
However you intend to celebrate our Queen’s 60 years of crowning glory we thought we would take a peek at the fashions and styles of 1952 to help us all get in the mood.

Okay, so what was being worn in 1952? Well, obviously some people were practising wearing a weighty seven pound diamond and rare jewel encrusted crown complimented with a full length velvet robe.  And everyone else? …

Bet she's wearing her slippers

For the Gals

The 1950’s was a decade of transitions. The early 50’s were still in the more formal style of the 40’s, reflecting an economy still recovering from WWII. Clothing coupons had been abolished in 1948 but food rationing only stopped in February 1952 (petrol rationing continued until 1957). After the mid 50's a more relaxed approach was to make its way in, with Capri trousers, denim, knitted sweatshirts, shorter hair and flat shoes, to give way to the 1960’s. But that was all still to come.

The 1950’s is epitomised as an era of glamour. There were two main styles in the early 1950’s. Women were sick of the drudge of the everyday as well as cost-cutting with their fabrics and looks during and since the war. They were more than ready for glamour and to re-emphasise their femininity. Enter Christian Dior’s New Look in 1947. Initially this radical and shocking look was not readily taken to but when people got their heads round it the style went on to reign supreme for another 10 years and is still influential today. So, 1952 was slap bang in the middle of this force of fashion.  The look was designed to highlight women’s narrow waists. With fitted jackets, nipped in waists and full A-line skirts this style gave the classic hourglass figure. It was sophisticated, elegant and feminine (and swishy). Most importantly the mid-calf length skirts lavishly used reams and reams of fabric which demonstrated luxury which women craved after years of scrimping. Underneath all that material was a support system of girdles, corsets and stiffened petticoats to keep the skirts big and the waistlines small.

The other dominant style worked along similar lines in a different way. The pencil skirt had been around since the 1940’s and was still on trend. In the previous decade the pencil skirt was popular because it was smart, flattering and cheap as it did not require too much material. In the 1950’s the ultra feminine pencil skirt remained a favourite because it emphasised the waist and therefore a womanly figure; it was far removed from the silhouette of a war-time uniform. Although the look was very polished and smart it was also very easy to copy. Combined with the introduction of mass-produced clothing of far better quality than ever before and using modern textile techniques with new synthetics (easy care, drip dry, nylon, acrylic, polyester and spandex) the look was accessible too. Shops such as Marks and Spencer sold their own versions or women made them up from patterns.

Both looks were matched with leg-elongating and fetching high heels. Round or peep toe were favoured. However, Dior then introduced stilettos at a fashion show in early 1952 and as we know the rest is history.

Other significant elements of fashion include the introduction of the dolman sleeve (wide at the armhole and narrow at the wrist) which was adopted into many outfits. Stand away collars came in bringing attention to the neck and throat, which were also highlighted by the shorter hairstyles, while the swing back coat (by Jacques Fath) was indispensable at drawing attention away from the stomach area; key at a time of post-war high pregnancy rates.

Accessories were another important post-war demarcation point because of their luxurious frivolity. Gloves were an essential, particularly in white or cream to emphasise elegance. Hats were still popular in the early 1950’s in a variety of designs including the pillbox and those styled very close to the head. Fur collars and cuffs (ahem, polite cough) and stoles layered on the glamour and fur even featured on brooches.

Of course handbags were crucial in finishing of an outfit and also indispensable in holding a host of newly available make-up made popular by colour Hollywood flicks and by the singers of the time. (The UK singles charts began in November 1952 with Nat King Cole, Frankie Laine, Doris Day, Vera Lynn and Johnnie Ray holding top spots). Max Fax brought make-up called Pan Cake, for a flawless finish, to the consumer so they could copy their film favourite’s looks such as Gene Kelly in Singing In The Rain and Diana Dors in The Last Page (both 1952 hits). Red was on the lips but so were shimmering pinks with matching nails. Stars such as Elizabeth Taylor were also having their hairstyles copied and then in 1952/3 a wave of copy-cat newbie Queen hair styles became popular.

And that was all just for day wear! In the evening the look was based on the same silhouettes; whether the look was demure floating in a full skirt or sophisticated in a pencil skirt it was all ramped up a notch with more glamour. Strapless dresses in fabrics such as chiffon (double helpings of swish) took centre stage with a supporting cast of boleros, short shrugs and gloves.

 

Fashion Trends from 1952

For The Guys

In the early 50’s Elvis was still a truck driver, rock and roll was in its infancy and the world was just about to experience the 'teenager'. In 1952 menswear was serious business. Since the end of the war women were encouraged back into the home so that men back from the war could take up places in the world of work and menswear was formal and professional consisting of uniform suits in dark hues. Generally the suit was simplified by taking out the shoulder pads of the 40’s, removing the double breast on the jacket and shortening the jacket and trousers slightly. This was the early 50’s concession to fashion. Sorry boys, not much glamour for you in 1952.

However, hats were really big! We don’t mean physically big, that would be ridiculous, it just wouldn’t have worked on a daily commute on the tube. Silly. No, but hats were very popular. No self respecting man left the house without one but the hat could be individualised through various styles, with the Fedora being a fave. They could also be placed at a jaunty angle – steady there!

A typical family chillaxing in the early 1950's

Casual wear for young chaps was basically a mini-version of men's styles or veered to the preppy Ivy League look which remained smart although the suit jacket was replaced by a comfy cardy. Out of the mainstream the teddy boy movement was gaining ground (though they weren’t termed teddy boys until 1953) with their appropriated and altered version of the Edwardian dapper.

All in all 1952 was still entrenched in the formal 40’s but with Dior’s dominant New Look everywhere the demand for luxury, femininity and glamour was met and then some. With thoughts of the war still being pushed to the back of people’s minds, Elizabeth’s accession to the throne in ’52, followed by a year’s preparation for her coronation, Britain must have had a jolly good knees up … and looked damn fine while doing so! Perhaps sixty years on it's our duty to go out there, do our bit, and bring vintage style to the streets of Reading.

Whatever your plans we hope you have a fab Jubilee weekend.

Love Frock&Roll

Picture credits: Fashion trends from 1952 reproduced by kind permission wesewretro.com

Date For Your Diary

Dear Frock&Rollers,

We are delighted to cordially invite you to a free and très exclusive master class in 1940’s hair and make-up on Wednesday 13^th June, between 7pm and 9pm at the Frock&Roll shop.

RSVP

Ali: 07800 022359, or in store

"Just a smidge more blush and I'm there"

Frock&Roll has hosted a few in-store events since opening and we are thrilled to announce the latest in a series of hair and make-up styling evenings.

We're also very excited that it will be the lovely Amy Brandon will be coming in to share some top vintage tips. Amy is an accomplished Hair and Make-Up Artist and has worked in fashion and on music videos, adverts and photo shoots (amybrandon.com). So we’ll be getting the know-how from a true insider.

Amy in Action

Amy will be showing us how to achieve a flawless 40’s look with classic make-up to create a perfect pout and achieve the eyes of a Hollywood starlet. Amy will also be demonstrating various hair styles such as Victory Rolls and tricks to wearing a headscarf. There will also be time at the end for a quick Q&A session.

So if you have ever wanted to complete your vintage outfit with the look, love all things 40’s, or just fancy having some fun with hair and make-up styling this event is for you.

Spaces are limited so make sure you book early.

We look forward to seeing you on the 13th of June.

Love Frock&Roll

Vintage In The Office

Hi there lovelies,

Hope you have had a splendid week.

Well, it's May and if we're going to be able to afford this, this summer ...


We're All Going on a Summer Holiday

We're going to have to do a lot more of this, this spring ...


"Damn You Little Green Alien, I Need to Get to the Next Level to Beat Nigel in Accounts"

We may be daydreaming of lounging on a beach at sunset sipping Pina Coladas, complete with little umbrellas (very sophisticated) or of a bracing stroll along a windswept beach with rosy cheeks, before heading back to the caravan, complete with tea and cake ... but we've still got to drag our arses into work in the meantime to get us there.

However, just because we're paying the bills and saving the pennies for this year's great escape who says it can't all be done with verve or a dash of panache? Not us! Work doesn't have to be a sterile, style free place devoid of creativity or individual flair even if the work canteen is. Why not work your effortless vintage glamour and elegance at ... work. Lovely.

We've been having some fun putting workwear 3 looks together from 3 eras. All are professional, smart and stylish; to inspire some 9 - 5 vintage and retro chic.

1960's

Inspired by Mad Men this pert and prim outfit of matching dress and jacket is a classic. Paired with complimentary handbag and shoes; this is non-fussy and simple elegance. If this outfit had it's own soundtrack it might be Breakfast at Tiffany's.

1970's

How about breezing into the office with your big 70's curled hair swinging, bringing Californian sunshine style to a drab Monday morning? Easy and care-free; just touch up the lip gloss, pop your bag over your shoulder and off you go.

1980's

Yes, we're business women and we mean ... errrm ... business. With striking dog-tooth and a dash of red we can wow with confidence in Thursday afternoon's very important office supply meeting. This is the outfit to get your point across in - if you want bourbons you ask for bourbons! Don't put up with those digestives. Ok, ok, seriously the Fiesta scarf might not go with the blouse because of the bow but we had to include it - it's fantastic! But don't go thinking we put this article together just to get the scarf in, because we didn't.

Have a great weekend.

Love Frock&Roll

Photos: Deck chairs (c) Zoemichelle, Business woman (c) Netris, both StockFreeImages & Dreamstime Stock Photos, StockFreeImages

Students Advertise Their Creative Flair

Down on the very fashion forward Kings Road.  No, we're not talking Chelsea, but in our very own town of Reading. The first year students, studying for a National Diploma in Fashion at Reading College, have been beavering away on a special project to produce a marketing poster for a local business.

This is the second year that Frock&Roll has been approached by the course's Lecturer Emma Laird and enjoyed collaborating in this creative endeavour. Each project group were tasked to choose one piece of vintage clothing from the shop and then style it to create a winning look. They had to organise a photo shoot, which involved choosing & styling a model, picking a location and adding their own twist to the ensemble. They then selected an image and edited it to produce the final poster.

We're really blown away with the four groups’ different take on the vintage theme and thought we would share with you the great images that the students accomplished.

We love this cheeky look. It is a great image and very clean & professional. The pose is well executed and has heaps of personality. The use of red accents on the accessories and the phone catches the eye and pulls the whole poster together.  

This image has a very ethereal and gothic look. The choice of backdrop is perfect for the style of dress. We find it evokes thoughts of Kate Bush/Florence Welsh etc. The model’s hair and makeup is soft and in keeping with the theme, and the subtle look is mysterious, romantic and pensive. We like the fact it promotes individual style.

The model looks fresh and natural, the make-up is perfect and the dress looks great. The cute matching sunglasses and small earrings complete the look. The image makes you feel the model is very carefree, happy and comfortable; therefore making the clothing appeal.

This image really creates a story…is the girl waiting for a date or friends?  The look is very natural and un-staged, so you associate with the character and you can imagine being in her shoes. The dress stands out, looks great and feels fun, young and flirty.  The railings, trees and sunny day all tie in to complete this great look.

All in all, a brilliant job by the students. Bravo, we say! The final posters are all just fab and we will be displaying these in store shortly and also using some for our A-Boards.

Let us know what you think of these images?  Which one is your favourite?
Love Frock&Roll